Ecotect - Architects and BER Assessors
Building Energy Rating Assessors, Dublin, Ireland.
About Ecotect.ie
Who are we:
Ecotect is network of Architects, Designers and Energy Professionals with years of experience in the Irish Construction Industry.
Its founding members are:
Shane Mc Enroe is an RIAI Architect & BER energy Assessor with 15 years experience.
Gary Mc Ginty is an Designer & BER energy Assessor with 10 years experience.
What we do:
- We provide the latest information on Green Technology relevant to people in Ireland.
- We advise on the design sustainable energy efficient buildings.
- We advise on BER Energy Assessments on new and existing properties.
Where do we do this:
We are located in Dublin, Meath & Mayo and work around Ireland.
Why are we different:
We are passionate about sustainable design. Its not the future its the way it should be.
Join Us:
If you are an Architect or Design Professional and want to join a network of professionals sharing knowledge and experience please contact us.
Employ us:
If your a client with a project and energy efficiency is a important to you - please contact us.
Contact us:
or call
Gary on 087 2433653
Shane on 087 6799184
The Office - 01 6779655
Follow us on twitter
twitter.com/ecotect
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Domestic BER
WHAT IS A BER?
A Building Energy Rating or BER is similar to the energy label on your fridge with a scale of A-G. A-rated homes are the most energy efficient and G the least efficient. From 1st January 2009, a BER certificate will be compulsory for all homes being sold or rented. If you are buying or renting a new house or apartment now, you may already be entitled to a BER – so ask the seller/landlord or their agent for it.
Along with the BER certificate, you will also receive an Advisory Report which will help you to identify how you might improve the energy performance of your home.
WHO IS ENTITLED TO A BER?
A seller must provide a BER to prospective buyers or tenants when a home is constructed, sold or rented under the following circumstances:
• New homes where planning permission was applied for on or after 1st January 2007;
• All homes for sale or rent on or after 1st January 2009.
There are exemptions for certain categories of buildings, e.g. protected structures and certain temporary building (Ref. S.I. No. 666 of 2006).There are fines of up to €5,000 for non-compliance with the regulations.
How much does a BER cost?
please call 087 2433653 or +353 1 677 9655
or
email us here and we can advise on the cost of a BER
How long is a BER valid for?
A BER is valid for up to 10 years provided that there is no material change to the dwelling that could affect its energy performance. The maximum term of validity of a Provisional BER is 2 years.
What is a Provisional BER?
New homes offered for sale off plans also require a BER. In these cases, a Provisional BER will be issued based upon the design drawings and building specifications. When the home is completed, a BER based on an assessment of the final drawings and building specifications, which represent the house as constructed, is required. This BER must be supplied by the builder/developer on completion of any such homes sold off plans.
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Air Tightness
Air Pressure Test Regime Size for Building Energy Rating Assessments
Purpose
The purpose of this document is to give guidance on the sampling regime required for pressure testing of dwellings for Building Energy Rating (BER) purposes. This sampling regime is based on the existing system for demonstrating compliance with Part L of the Building Regulations in the UK. (Source; UK’s Approved Document L1A, 2006 edition). This initial sampling regime may be revised to reflect future revisions to the Building Regulations Part L or the Technical Guidance Document to Building Regulations Part L in Ireland.
Context
The Dwelling Energy Assessment Procedure (DEAP) is used for the energy rating of dwellings in Ireland. As detailed in Section 2 of the DEAP Manual, the DEAP methodology includes two options for calculating background air leakage into and out of a dwelling:
* A calculated value may be used base on number of storeys, structure type, floor type and draught-stripping of windows in dwelling, or
* Adjusted air leakage pressurisation test data may be used. In this case Section 2.3 of the DEAP Manual states that the air leakage pressurisation test must be performed in accordance with IS EN 13829.
Required Sampling Regime
Where a BER assessor is rating several dwellings of the same type, and (s)he opts to use adjusted air leakage pressurisation data, air pressurisation tests may be carried out on a sample of the relevant dwellings. The required sampling regime for all types of construction in each development is detailed in Table 1 .
For dwellings to be considered part of the same development, they should be:
· Constructed on the same site (i.e. a single tract of land). This includes neighbouring houses.
· By a single developer (i.e. the same company / builder is responsible of all construction)
· Are contemporary (i.e. all constructed in the same time period).
Each of the following constitutes a change of dwelling type:
· Change in method of construction e.g. timber frame and brick & block
· Ground floor, mid floor & top floor flats
· End of terrace & mid terrace
· Semi-detached & detached
· Changes in building floor area
50% of the required air tightness tests should be carried out during construction of the first 25% of each dwelling type. For best practice, it is recommended to test the first of each dwelling type on each site in order to identify and modify any details that are causing an air tightness problem
Air Pressurisation Test Results in DEAP
Where air pressurisation tests are carried out on a sample of dwellings representing a specific dwelling type, the maximum air pressure test result for that dwelling type, q50, measured in m3 per hour per m2 envelope area, should be divided by 20 to give the “Adjusted result of pressurisation test”. This is the value that should be entered into the DEAP software for all of the untested dwellings of that type.
Where an individual dwelling has actually been tested, the air pressure test result for that dwelling, q50, measured in m3 per hour per m2 envelope area, should be divided by 20 to give the “Adjusted result of pressurisation test”. This is the value that should be entered into the DEAP software for that actual dwelling.
BER Assessor Records
BER assessors are required to keep appropriate records of the air pressure test results. Evidence and records of air pressure test results will be inspected during routine BER Quality Assurance audits.
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Commercial BER
A Building Energy Rating (BER) and advisory report is to be supplied by the owner to a prospective buyer or tenant when constructed, sold or rented. The BER is intended to give prospective buyers and tenants information about the energy performance of buildings. the BER also gives builders/developers and vendors/landlords, an incentive to upgrade the energy performance of the building by giving visible credit to superior standards.
The BER must be accompanied by an “Advisory Report” setting out recommendations for cost-effective improvements to the energy performance of the building. However there will be no legal obligation on vendors or prospective purchasers to carry out the recommended improvements.
Implementation Dates
- 1 July 2008 - BER of new non-domestic buildings for which planning permission is applied on/after that date.
- 1 January 2009 - BER of existing buildings, when offered for sale or rent.
BER Assessment Process
The building owner must engage a registered BER assessor to carry out assessments. The BER assessor follows the Non Domestic Energy Assessment Procedure(NEAP) to calculate the BER and generate the advisory report. The assessment is submitted for publication on the national BER register.
BER Certificate
The BER is an indicator of energy performance covering energy use for space heating and cooling, water heating, ventilation and lighting, calculated on the basis of standard operating patterns. It is accompanied by a CO2 emissions indicator. To see what a BER Certificate looks like please click here .
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HOME ENERGY SAVING SCHEME
Who can avail of the scheme?
It is a National scheme and therefore all homeowners may apply. Landlords and owners of multiple properties may also apply, however they must submit a separate application form for each property.
What type of work can I get a grant for?
Grants will be provided to homeowners who invest in energy efficiency improvements in the following area:
* Roof Insulation
* Wall Insulation - this includes either cavity wall, internal dry lining or external insulation
* Replacement High Efficiency (> 90%) Gas or Oil fired Boilers with Heating Controls Upgrade*
* Heating Controls Upgrade*
* Building Energy Rating (BER) - you can get a grant for a BER if one is done before and after the works are completed
* Minimum requirement of: 2 zones (space and water) with 7 day programmer (time and temperature) control and boiler interlock, time and temperature control of electric immersion heater and either 1 more zone control or 3 TRV’s.
How much are the grants?
Grants are fixed for each type of measure as indicated in the table below. Grant approval must be in place before any purchase of materials or commencement of measures undertaken. Grants are paid after the measures are completed and the contractor has been paid by the homeowner. In the instance where the cost of the work (vat inclusive) is less than the fixed grant amount, the actual cost will be reimbursed.
MEASURE CATEGORY GRANT *
- Roof Roof Insulation €250
- Wall Cavity wall insulation €400
- Internal Wall Dry-Lining €2,500
- External wall insulation €4,000
- Heating Controls High Efficiency Gas or Oil fired Boiler with Heating Controls Upgrade €700
- Heating Controls Upgrade €500
- BER Assessment A Before works and an After works BER assessment €200
* Please note that while you are entitled to apply for each Measure there is a minimum requirement that the grant amount in the first application must be €500 or greater. The BER grant cannot form part of this €500 amount.
Who can do the work?
In accordance with the scheme’s Terms and Conditions, all works must be completed by a contractor from SEI’s Registered List, which will be published when the scheme opens for homeowner applications.
If undertaking a BER, these must be completed by a registered BER assessor. A list of registered assessors is available on the SEI website www.sei.ie/BER
How do I apply?
The scheme has been launched/announced now in order to allow interested contractors to apply for registration. Once there are sufficient registered contractors available to the scheme, there will be a further announcement regarding householder applications.
So, at the present moment the scheme is not open for applications from homeowners. Please keep a close eye out for future notices and check back regularly to ensure you are aware of when the scheme opens for applications.
If you wish to register your interest in the scheme and be contacted when it opens for applications, then simply click hes@sei.ie or phone 1850 927000
In the meantime, you could be looking around your house to identify areas which could improve your energy efficiency, see the Self Home Survey which is downloadable here in PDF format.
We also have some guides available to download offering information on the measures covered under the scheme as well as questions you can ask your installer/supplier.
You may also like to engage a Building Energy Rating (BER) assessor to perform an energy rating of your home with an accompanying Advisory Report, which will help identify areas that could improve your level of comfort along with reducing future heating bills.
When can I get the work done?
In accordance with the scheme’s Terms and Conditions, Grant Approval must be in place prior to any purchase of materials or commencement of works is undertaken. Since the scheme is not currently open for application you should not undertake any works yet. If you have already done so, then unfortunately you will not be eligible for a grant.
However, the Before BER can be done ahead of Grant Approval and could prove beneficial for homeowners who are uncertain about their options or what to get done first.
When might you NOT qualify for a Home Energy Saving scheme grant?
Depending on the scale or type of works being undertaken, the HES grant may not necessarily be appropriate for all homeowners. Homeowners will not qualify for a grant:
* If your first grant application would be for less than €500. So if you are only intending to do attic insulation (€250) or blown cavity wall insulation (€400) on their own then you will not qualify for a grant
* If you are only replacing your existing boiler with a typical efficiency boiler (<90% efficiency) then you will not qualify for a grant
* If you decide to simply replace your boiler but not upgrade the heating controls to the minimum prescribed standard then you will not qualify for a grant
* If you wish to get a grant for a Building Energy Rating (BER) then you must undertake a BER both before and after undertaking the appropriate grant aided measures.
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Energy Saving TIPS
Some of the no-cost electricity saving tips recommended:
Lighting:
- Turn the lights off when leaving a room.
- Use “task” lighting rather than whole room lighting when a small amount of light is required.
- Regularly clean light fittings, reflectors and lampshades.
Timers:
- Use the timer on your immersion heater. This should supply you with enough hot water as and when you need it.
Electric Shower:
- Take a shower rather than a bath. A typical shower uses only one fifth of the energy of a full bath.
Computer:
- Configure your computer to “energy saving” mode in which it will automatically change to the state of low consumption.
- Switching off the screen can save even more than just letting the screen saver run.
- Turning your computer off at night instead of leaving it on will save on average 25% of its annual energy bill. Remember you should turn off your computer whenever you are not going to use it for more than an hour.
Television:
- A television in standby mode can use up to as much as half the electricity as when it is switched on.
Fridge/Freezers:
- Don’t let frost build up in the freezer compartment as this increases energy consumption. Remember to defrost and clean the inside of your refrigerator and freezer at least every 6 months and make sure they are positioned in a cool place, not next to the cooker or boiler or where possible not in the path of direct sunlight.
- Check that the door seals on the refrigerator and freezer are tight fitting - the seals hold a 5 euro note in place when the door is closed.
- Don’t put warm or hot food straight into the freezer - let it cool down first.
Cooking:
- Put lids on pots and turn down the heat when the water starts to boil. The lids not only keep heat in the pot but also reduce condensation in the kitchen.
- At a certain point in cooking, turn off electric rings and use their residual heat.
- Lots of energy saving cooking devices are under used: like slow casseroles, insulated deep fat fryers, microwave ovens and pressure cookers. They can save both energy and time - with better results!
Microwaves:
In a microwave oven, arrange unevenly shaped items with the thickest portion to the outside. Stir or turn the food over to speed up cooking time. Remember a microwave is more efficient than a cooker for reheating food.
Electric Ovens:
- The oven is expensive to use - try to use it as sparingly and efficiently as possible. Where possible use it for more than just one item and remember you can cook at a higher temperature at the top of the oven, and simultaneously at a lower temperature at the bottom.
- Do not open the oven door to check cooking - every time you do so you lose 20% of the accumulated heat.
Toasters & Kettles:
- The toaster is more energy efficient than the grill for toasting bread.
- When making tea or coffee, boil only the amount of water required (but make sure the heating elements of electric kettles are covered!).
Tumble Dryers:
- When drying clothes in a dryer, dry heavy articles separately from light articles and turn the dryer off as soon as the clothes are dry - don’t over dry the clothes!
- Dry clothes naturally out of doors whenever possible.
Washing Machines:
The washing cycle selected on a washing machine should have the lowest water temerature required for the items being washed. A full load of washing is more energy efficient that two half loads. Use a cold rinse for your clothes.
Dishwashers:
- Stop the dishwasher before the drying cycle and open the door to let the dishes air dry and always use the economy button where possible.
Electric Blankets:
Switch on electric blankets no more than half an hour before you go to bed and switch off just before you get into bed.
When purchasing, you should consider the following:
Appliances:
Be demanding when you buy, check the energy labels on appliances. Purchase ‘A’ rated appliances whenever possible, they can save their replacement cost over their lifetime and benefit the environment.
Compact Fluorescent Lamps (CFLs):
These use a fraction of the electricity and last up to 10 times longer than ordinary light-bulbs - could you install more in your home?
Electric Heaters:
When buying heaters, make sure they are the right size for the rooms they are to heat. Remember that electric heaters consume electricity at the most expensive charge rate.
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Wind Power
The Sun heats the earth unevenly, creating thermal air pockets. In order to achieve equal temperatures around the earth these air pockets move about the earth as wind. The energy that travels in the wind can be captured and converted to provide electricity.
Wind energy provides a clean, sustainable solution to our energy problems. It can be used as an alternative to fossil fuels in generating electricity, without the emission of greenhouse gases. And there will always be wind; it is inexhaustible and renewable.
It is envisaged that wind power will make the most significant contribution to the achievement of national and international targets for green electricity, due to its environmental benefits and increasing competitiveness.
Wind Farms
Since the first wind farm project was realised in 1992 at Bellacorrick , Co. Mayo, 215 MW rated capacity has been installed on the National Grid by 2003. It is likely that in order to achieve our national target of an additional 500MW by 2005, over three times as much wind generated capacity will need to be installed than has been in the previous 10 years.
Guidlines for wind farm planning, development and construction have been produced and are widely available, particularly through National and International Industry Associations such as the IWEA and EWEA .
For further information on wind farms go to Wind Farms and the Environment, Wind Farms in Ireland, or Wind Farm Development.
Three new and up-to-date factsheets are now available providing high quality independent information and data about wind farms and wind energy.
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INSULATION
INSULATION
- Much of the heat loss from a house occurs through the windows particularly if they are single glazed. Keep curtains closed at night and ensure that the curtains don’t hang over the radiators.
- A reflective foil, backed by insulation if space permits should be fixed behind radiators mounted on external walls.
- A lagging jacket on your hot water cylinder will keep water hotter for longer and pay for itself in 2-3 months.
- If replacing the hot water cylinder, a cylinder with factory applied insulation should be considered. Such insulation is more effective at retaining heat than a lagging jacket, is less easily damaged and cannot be pulled out of place.
- Insulate your attic and save up to 20% on your home heating bill.
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SOLAR
SOLAR
What is Solar Energy?
Solar energy is the mother of most renewable energies on earth. The sun powers natural cycles on earth like the wind, water flow and plant growth.
But the sun is also such a reliable source of heat and light that we sometimes take it for granted. Generations have used glass and other materials and structures to capture and magnify the sun’s energy and these systems have gradually evolved to form the basis of mature techniques that are used today to harness solar energy.
There are 3 basic approaches used today to gain maximum benefit of solar energy in buildings:
- Passive Solar
- Active Solar Heating
- Solar Photovoltaic (PV) Systems
Passive Solar
Passive Solar Architecture is a building design approach which seeks to:
* maximize solar gains in the building (through good orientation and layout, and glazing);
* avoid heat losses through ensuring a high level of insulation and air-tightness of the building;
* ensure a high degree of comfort by using controlled ventilation and daylighting.
Anyone building a new house or refurbishing extensively an existing house should apply passive solar principles, and reduce their heating requirement by up to 80% at no or little extra-cost.
Today, the most advance form of passive solar design has been translated into the Passive House standard. For more information, go to http://www.passiv.de/.
Download Passive Solar Design – Solar Homes Catch the Sun
Download A Buyers’ Guide to Low Energy and Passive Houses
Download Passive homes - Guidelines For The Design And Construction Of Passive House Dwellings In Ireland
Active Solar Heating
Active Solar Heating is one of the primary ways for buildings to use solar energy. This technology uses solar collectors to transform sunlight into heat to provide space and/or water heating. Solar water heating is the most common application of active solar thermal in Europe. A correctly sized solar water heating system can cover 50-60% of your hot water heating requirement with free solar energy.
A solar thermal system providing space and water heating is generally referred to as a solar combisystem. It is generally sized to cover 30 to 40% of the annual heating requirement of a house in Northern Europe. In Ireland, a solar combisystem using air as a heat transfer medium is gaining in popularity. It has the advantage of combining solar heating and ventilation through the same system. It is particularly suitable for low-energy houses.
By 2005, over 3,000 households used a solar heating system in Ireland, compared to about 5 million households in Europe.
Solar Photovoltaic (PV) Systems
‘Photovoltaic’ means electricity from light. In essence, photovoltaic systems use daylight (not necessarily direct sunlight) to convert solar radiation into electricity. The light which shines on the PV cells creates an electric field causing electricity to flow. The greater the intensity of the light, the greater the flow of electricity.
Photovoltaic systems use semiconductor materials to convert solar energy into electricity. This technology is widely used in consumer products such as solar calculators, watches or garden lights, and is increasingly used as a cost-effective solution in Ireland for stand-alone applications where a grid connection is too expensive (e.g. parking meters, caravans or remote holiday homes).
Solar PV can also be used to provide free solar electricity to houses as well as for commercial and industrial applications. Recent developments in regulation mean that it will shortly be possible to connect solar PV systems to the grid, opening up a new era for solar PV in Ireland.
Recommended websites:
http://www1.eere.energy.gov/solar/photovoltaics.html
http://www.pvresources.com
http://www.lowcarbonbuildings.org.uk/micro/solarpv/
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Excerpt from recent National Geographic Article on Home Energy
There is a brilliant article in the Feb/March 2009 issue of the The National Geographic Magazine
Not long ago, my wife, PJ, and I tried a new diet—not to lose a little weight but to answer a nagging question about climate change. Scientists have reported recently that the world is heating up even faster than predicted only a few years ago, and that the consequences could be severe if we don’t keep reducing emissions of carbon dioxide and other greenhouse gases that are trapping heat in our atmosphere. But what can we do about it as individuals? And as emissions from China, India, and other developing nations skyrocket, will our efforts really make any difference?
We decided to try an experiment. For one month we tracked our personal emissions of carbon dioxide (CO2) as if we were counting calories. We wanted to see how much we could cut back, so we put ourselves on a strict diet. The average U.S. household produces about 150 pounds of CO2 a day by doing commonplace things like turning on air-conditioning or driving cars. That’s more than twice the European average and almost five times the global average, mostly because Americans drive more and have bigger houses. But how much should we try to reduce?
For an answer, I checked with Tim Flannery, author of The Weather Makers: How Man Is Changing the Climate and What It Means for Life on Earth. In his book, he’d challenged readers to make deep cuts in personal emissions to keep the world from reaching critical tipping points, such as the melting of the ice sheets in Greenland or West Antarctica. “To stay below that threshold, we need to reduce CO2 emissions by 80 percent,” he said.
“That sounds like a lot,” PJ said. “Can we really do that?”
It seemed unlikely to me too. Still, the point was to answer a simple question: How close could we come to a lifestyle the planet could handle? If it turned out we couldn’t do it, perhaps we could at least identify places where the diet pinched and figure out ways to adjust. So we agreed to shoot for 80 percent less than the U.S. average, which equated to a daily diet of only 30 pounds of CO2. Then we set out to find a few neighbors to join us.
John and Kyoko Bauer were logical candidates. Dedicated greenies, they were already committed to a low-impact lifestyle. One car, one TV, no meat except fish. As parents of three-year-old twins, they were also worried about the future. “Absolutely, sign us up,” John said.
Susan and Mitch Freedman, meanwhile, had two teenagers. Susan wasn’t sure how eager they would be to cut back during their summer vacation, but she was game to give the diet a try. As an architect, Mitch was working on an office building designed to be energy efficient, so he was curious how much they could save at home. So the Freedmans were in too.
We started on a Sunday in July, an unseasonably mild day in Northern Virginia, where we live. A front had blown through the night before, and I’d opened our bedroom windows to let in the breeze. We’d gotten so used to keeping our air-conditioning going around the clock, I’d almost forgotten the windows even opened. The birds woke us at five with a pleasant racket in the trees, the sun came up, and our experiment began. read more..
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Contact Ecotect
or call
Gary on 087 2433653
Shane on 087 6799184
The Office - 01 6779655
Follow us on twitter
twitter.com/ecotect
Gary Mc Ginty
Ecotect
2nd Floor over Pharmacy
38 South William Street
Dublin 2
T +353 1 677 9655
M +353 87 243 3653
info@ecotect.ie
www.ecotect.ie